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Bulgaria:
Black Sea Coast
'grand scale migration of raptors, storks and
pelicans;
mammals and reptiles of the steppe'
Late September sees one of Europe's major movements of raptors, storks
and other migrants over the Bosphorus, but these birds first filter along
the Black Sea coast (the 'Via Pontica' flyway) where this exciting new
tour is based.
Pavel Simeonov, our man on the scene who co-leaded this event, is one
of Bulgaria's leading naturalists and ornithologists. I first met Pavel
eight years ago in Belarus and regard him as the kind of professional
but genial individual who fits perfectly into a Great Glen Wildlife tour.
David Kent - GGW
Tour report 2004
GREAT GLEN WILDLIFE TOUR REPORT
BULGARIA - the Black Sea Coast
27 September - 4 October 2004; Guides: David Kent (GGW) and Pavel Simeonov
(Branta-Tours)
Participants: Frank Newington Janet Newington George
Worthington Margaret Worthington Cliff Jackson
Day 1; Mon. 27 Sept. Following rendezvous at London
Heathrow, Terminal 1, we boarded our aircraft for the scheduled 08:55
flight to Sofia with British Airways, finally lifting off late at about
09:40. Touching down at Sofia (14:40) Magpies and Rooks - first birds
of the tour - were duly noted by the runway. After collecting tickets
from the Hemus Air desk for our onwards flight to Varna we enjoyed T/coffee
in the second-floor restaurant, from which gatherings of Swifts, flocks
of Starlings, a couple of Kestrels and a cat stalking the rooftops helped
keep us amused.
Our scheduled 19:00 flight took off just fifteen minutes late, arriving
in Varna at 19:55 following a bumpy passage through storm clouds (the
surrounding lightning displays were quite 'inspiring'!). Our guide Pavel
Simeonov, tour-leader of Branta-Tours company, linked up with us at the baggage reclaim and, by 20:20, we were heading
north. Hotel “Yanitsa”, our exceedingly comfortable hotel
at Krapetz on the shore of the Black Sea, was reached at 21:50. A late
but tasty meal awaited us, accompanied by a welcoming shot of Rakia (Bulgaria's
answer to Scotch whisky). At 17?C. the evening was most agreeable, a full
moon casting a path of reflected light across the Black Sea surface -
the ingredients of a perfect introduction.
Day 2; Tue. 28 Sept. Sunrise over the Black Sea was
the vista to which we awakened, viewed from the balconies to our rooms.
Breakfast at 08:00 was followed by departure at 09:00, the day starting
mild and becoming increasingly warm. A roadside Syrian Woodpecker prompted
our first stop, just a few kms. into our journey. The stop also produced
the first of at least 10 million Red-backed Shrikes, the first of many
Lesser Spotted Eagles, a Short-toed Eagle mobbed by a Sparrowhawk, a female
Marsh Harrier and handsome male Red-footed Falcon that presented a wonderful
image when viewed through the scopes. Further along four more R-f. Falcons
perched on overhead cables, with another six hawking insects around a
village.
Shabla Lake was our first main destination, which we viewed from sparse
grassland to the south. Two Squacco Herons, the snakelike necks of juvenile
Purple Herons, a scattering of Grey Herons plus group of about 20 Little
Egrets were among the first birds noted. Close inspection through scopes
of the latter disclosed a single Cattle Egret - an extremely rare bird
for Northern Black Sea coast of Bulgaria according to Pavel.
Moving on to Shabla Tuzla, a small saline lake close to the sea, a female
Golden Oriole crossed our path. An opening examination of the scene, where
a glare hampered satisfactory viewing, disclosed Mallard, Teal, Pintail,
Black-headed, Little, Slender-billed and Yellow-legged Gulls, three Caspian
and a Sandwich Tern, Dunlin, Ruff and Marsh Sandpiper. A shift to a better
vantage point enabled us to see the aforementioned more clearly, and add
Mute Swan, Oystercatcher, Ringed, Little Ringed and Golden Plovers, Lapwing,
Snipe, Little Stint and Reed Bunting. A flock of Shelducks flew by and
a group of Spoonbills was seen to rise on the soar. As we left the area
an extremely unlikely Ring Ouzel appeared in a tree by the track, a Hoopoe
being spotted shortly afterwards.
Onwards travel led us across open steppe habitat dotted with derelict
oil tanks - relicts of former oil exploration activity. Wheatears and
Whinchats appeared as we advanced through this semiarid terrain and, at
a stop by an abandoned military barracks, we were presented with the star
bird of the location - an unexpected Isabelline Wheatear. Although the
species nests here, its presence was a surprise in view of the late date
in the season. It proved a great asset to have Northern Wheatear and the
Isabelline together in the same field of view for purposes of comparison.
Duly arriving at the headland of “Yailata” we stopped by a
commanding overview of the sea for a late lunch. The location was an archaeological
site, the surface area containing many tomb chambers hewn directly into
the rock. A beautifully patterned Green Toad and one or two Balkan Wall
Lizards added diversity to the interest fund, while a clifftop Tawny Pipit
and first Long-legged Buzzard kept the bird count on the climb. Groups
of Shags (Black Sea subspecies) appeared on offshore rocks. A fairly thorough
scanning of surrounding steppe failed to produce the hoped-for European
Sousliks, just their burrows and runs. During continued travel across
the steppe flocks of migrants were encountered, mainly Skylarks and Calandra
Larks - particularly good views enjoyed of the latter. A most welcome
refreshment break was then taken at the Club M?diterran?e village of “Rusalka”
resort village. Reaching the road to Cape Kaliakra early evening a wander
into shrubby steppe cover was rewarded with countless Corn Buntings, innumerable
Red-backed Shrikes, a good many Chiffchaffs, plus another Hoopoe and a
Roller perched on a power line.
Taking a spur road to the north-east an impressive gorge called “Bolata”
was reached in which several Pygmy Cormorants flew up out of tall reeds.
This was the haunt of nesting Eagle Owls (Bubo bubo). In the light of late evening
we slowly strolled up the road, watching horizons for raptors and studying
dense reed beds for aquatic birds. Interplay between a large female Goshawk
and Common Buzzards was well worth watching, a pale adult Long-legged
Buzzard appearing also. Squeal-like calls from the dense cover disclosed
Water Rail presence, a bird showing rather well in our scopes. A Little
Crake was next to show, proving more difficult to scope in the failing
light. A Great Spotted Woodpecker (Aquila clanga), Great and Blue Tits, and two Red-breasted Flycatchers were other incidental birds seen and a Red Fox opened the
mammal tally, alas our Eagle Owl deigned to show.
Aided by powerful spotlight we looked for mammals on the return journey,
a Brown Hare, bat, mouse and several feral dogs being the net result.
A short visit to Pavel's home in Shabla, where we met and enjoyed the
kindly hospitality of his charming wife Tatyana and adoringly mischievous
son Pavel junior, preceded arrival at the hotel 21:05 at the end of a
very full and rewarding opening day.
Day 3; Wed. 29 Sept. 08:00 breakfast was followed by
departure at 09:00 for Lake Durankulak, located to the north at the edge
of the Black Sea. Along the approach track to the south-west a number
of Red-breasted Flycatchers appeared in flanking tree cover, followed
by a number of Marsh Harriers perched uncharacteristically in a line of
trees in a field beyond. The same trees also contained a Common Buzzard,
a female Sparrowhawk being chased by Magpies, a Roller, plus two Great
Egrets together with Grey Herons. A Turtle Dove perched in a foreground
bush. Checking the Black Sea shoreline a gathering of gulls contained
several Mediterranean and a couple of Common. Progressing to the lake
edge two unusually large flocks of Little Grebes contained collectively
fifty individuals. A Great Crested Grebe, Coots, juvenile Little Tern
and Little Gulls were also seen, and a Stone Curlew was heard flying over.
Continued travel took us away from the lakeside through ploughed arable
and steppe habitat - haunts of Steppe and Marbled Polecats which, although
occasionally seen by day, were not in evidence on this occasion. A Wryneck
flew across our path and alighted on the ground just a few metres from
the vehicle, presenting a close and prolonged view, and one or two Wood
Larks performed their song flights. Reaching the northern aspect of the
lake a Wood Warbler appeared in a bush, also a Pygmy Cormorant in a reed
bed.
Lunch was taken at a fish restaurant, where delicious fish soup followed
by locally caught catfish was enjoyed in the open air. Assorted common
tits, warblers and a Red-breasted Flycatcher flitted about the premises,
while an adult Whiskered and several juvenile Black Terns quartered the
lake surface beyond.
Onwards to the north-east corner a number of disused fish ponds was reached,
where, from an overlooking dyke, Pavel soon found us about 10 Ferruginous
Ducks plus Paddyfield and Moustached Warblers, the latter two requiring
a period of concentrated search before satisfactory views were achieved.
A few Tufted Ducks, Sedge and Reed Warblers, Bearded Tits and a Bluethroat
collectively contributed to a most worthwhile bird tally. Finally visiting
a coastal point to the extreme north of the ponds during the late afternoon
- two or three subspecies of Blue-headed Wagtail seen en route - we sauntered
into typical Paddyfield Warbler breeding habitat as flights off Cormorants
came in to roost from the Black Sea. A couple of Black-necked Grebes were
seen offshore.
Although nearing the close of this excellent day of top-rate birdwatching,
the best was still to come. On reaching the main road for the return journey,
power cables along the route contained ranks of what at first glance might
have been taken for Starlings. But we were in fact witnessing amassed
gatherings of Red-footed Falcons in readiness for migration. They also
lifted in small flocks from roadside trees and bushes as we travelled
on, an estimated 500 birds in total! A brief visit was made to the Le
Balkan-Bulgaria Foundation “Branta information center”, with
its overview of Lake Durankulak and arable fields where thousands of Red-breasted
Geese arrive to over-winter. About 50 Corn Buntings perched in a bush
outside the centre. Back at the hotel 18:00 at the close of a warm but
at times grey day, with just a few drops of rain.
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